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Peak Mountain 3

Chicken Talk

FA Dakota Walz & Lane Mathis 7/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of low angle lay-backing on great rock that protects well.

P1.

5.8, 60m

Start under an angled dihedral and push the rope up 200ft loose alpine romping until hitting a ledge on the left.

P2.

5.10-, 60m

Continue up and right aiming for nice ledge in a left facing corner.

P3.

5.9, 45m

Major traverse right. Step down from the belay following underclings to a green ledge.

P4.

5.10, 30m

Climb straight up the corner of slippery rock, step left, and climb through the short roof on great rock.

P5.

5.10+, 37m

Double dihedrals with lots of sustained lay-backing. Crux protects with small cams and midsized nuts.

P6.

5.10, 35m

Grass dance pitch. Climb up a bit and traverse left through the grass. Continue up and left through a roof to a small ledge.

P7.

5.10, 33m

Follow the corner straight up. When it begins to trend left, exit on face holds to enter another crack system continuing straight up to some funk and the mega ledge that splits the wall. Accidental fixed nut at this belay.

P8.

5.10-, 35m

Walk right across the ledge for 20ft and climb straight up the wonderful low angle finger crack to the rim.

Location

West face of Sumac Point. Start just above the smaller of the two tarns in the cirque.

Protection

Single #4

Doubles .2-#3

Draws

60m rope