- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots of low angle lay-backing on great rock that protects well.
P1.
5.8, 60m
Start under an angled dihedral and push the rope up 200ft loose alpine romping until hitting a ledge on the left.
P2.
5.10-, 60m
Continue up and right aiming for nice ledge in a left facing corner.
P3.
5.9, 45m
Major traverse right. Step down from the belay following underclings to a green ledge.
P4.
5.10, 30m
Climb straight up the corner of slippery rock, step left, and climb through the short roof on great rock.
P5.
5.10+, 37m
Double dihedrals with lots of sustained lay-backing. Crux protects with small cams and midsized nuts.
P6.
5.10, 35m
Grass dance pitch. Climb up a bit and traverse left through the grass. Continue up and left through a roof to a small ledge.
P7.
5.10, 33m
Follow the corner straight up. When it begins to trend left, exit on face holds to enter another crack system continuing straight up to some funk and the mega ledge that splits the wall. Accidental fixed nut at this belay.
P8.
5.10-, 35m
Walk right across the ledge for 20ft and climb straight up the wonderful low angle finger crack to the rim.
Location
West face of Sumac Point. Start just above the smaller of the two tarns in the cirque.
Protection
Single #4
Doubles .2-#3
Draws
60m rope
Routes in Cirque of the Moon
- 4Chicken Talk5.10+Alpine · Trad