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Peak Mountain 3

Salud

FA Errett Allen, Scott Cole
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

New route left of

La Chaim

that starts from a huge ledge about 60 feet above the base of The Pear.

Either approach the ledge by doing a short easy pitch that starts up

La Chaim

and breaks left, or third class up the gully below A Pig With Earrings for 50 feet and tunnel right under a huge flake to the ledge. From the ledge, the route is one long (180 feet) pitch to the walkoff ledge -- 60 meter rope is essential. Look for the first bolt about 8 feet below a small one foot overhang that is about 15 feet long and 20 feet above the ledge. Passing this bolt is the crux. Plug a small cam under the overhang, climb past two more bolts on easy but superb face to the long roof left of

La Chaim

. Turn the roof directly above the third bolt (5.8). Just above the lip of the roof, you can get a good 2.5 inch cam to the right or a smaller cam higher and left which provide great pro for the roof moves. Climb straight up face past two more bolts. From the last bolt, diagonal up and right to a grassy wide crack (2-3 inch pro). This crack joins

La Chaim

about 20 feet below the walkoff ledge.

Note: all bolts are 3/8 X 2.5 inch Rawl 5-piece with Metolius hangers, hand drilled from stance on the lead.

Protection

5 bolts, 3/4, 1, 1.5, 2.5, 3 inch cams