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Peak Mountain 3

Blastoff

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Description

Pitch 1: begin on slabby, thin right-angling crack until you reach a small ledge before the main crack. Follow this hands+ sized crack (slightly flaring but plenty of good pro) until you find a small alcove more than halfway up to build a gear belay.

Pitch 2: follow the main crack to the summit. When the crack begins to angle left, it widens to a chimney. If you want to haul large cams, you can protect for a while, but you will eventually have to run it out on 5.7 slab to reach the summit of the formation. Belay from a bolted anchor at the top.

This can be done as one mega-pitch.

Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between Blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.

Location

Begin on the main wall at a small, right-angling crack system. Behind you is a huge boulder.

Protection

A standard rack to at least #4. This would take the biggest cams you have for the chimney. Long slings would helpful in the chimney.


Routes in Falcon Buttress