- Edit (TBD)
Jackson's Wall Direct
Description
This route is about 40' to the right of the difficult
The Gill Crack
. You can belay in the shade of a nice, large boulder.
P1. Scramble up to the short dihedral, climb up it a few feet, and traverse left (crux). Continue traversing a long way (~40') to a crack that leads up to a ledge with a bolt and a pin.
P2. Climb up and to the left of a bush, grab a jug, and mantel onto a small ledge. Continue up this easy corner until you get to a fixed ring pin....back it up, lift up your skirt, and grab your nuts---traverse left on scary insecure "5.9" climbing for several feet (anyone get pro in on this???). I think that most people will find this to be the true crux of the climb, mentally and technically. Anyway, join up with a crack, and climb it to the next ledge.
P3. Complete with the last pitch of Jackson's Wall (5.6).
Protection
Standard rack to a #3 Camalot
Routes in Castle Rock
- 45Jackson's Wall Direct5.9+Trad