- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climb was very tense and physical, but more from the unknown nature of the chimney at the bottom, than the real wide climbing at the top. Luckily the bottom is very good 5.8 and the rest is well protected.
Chimney to the pinch, place a large cam and work up and around. The wide crack above is sustained except for a welcome rest stance on a huge horn. Don't get too excited about the final #2 hand crack, it's hard, too. The belay cave really feels like an oasis after all that thrashing and shimmying.
Best piece to belay off is a #6 overhead, but there are lots of options for the creative mind.
Location
The left crack system with the inviting cave at the base.
We did an easy traverse straight right to top out Sunny Side Girl and rap off that anchor.
Protection
Singles of tiny cams to large cams (9"-12" if you got 'em). I believe doubles 2-4 would be welcome.