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Peak Mountain 3

Send in the Uruk-Hai

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Description

More discontinuous and a bit more licheny than the other north face routes,

Send in the Uruk-Hai

nonetheless has pieces of memorable climbing and some good position.

(1) Start up a somewhat friable but well-bolted face right of

Trolls at the Gate

to gear in a short pinky crack and surmount an obvious jutting prow on its left side.  Clip the bolt above the prow, then jam and lay away up a short but overhanging crack system until able to make crux moves left to another crack system that is followed to a good ledge and bolted belay.  The crux is protected by good cams in sound rock, but it may take some endurance to place them.  (90')

(2) Climb more or less straight up from the belay, deviating as necessary for pro, toward the apex of an arch.  A bolt protects moves to surmount the arch, and another protects the scramble to the summit.  Belay from gear and a bolt.  (45')

Location

Look for the second line of tan hangers right of the Taylor-Contor route.  To descend, rap Trolls at the Gate.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 3 inches.