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Peak Mountain 3

Heaven's Rear-Entry Vehicle, Parked Out Back, Tow Away Zone

FA Isao Fujita & Jon Nelson (p1), Nicola Masciandaro & Jon Nelson (full)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The easiest route up the Cheeks formation and featuring an interesting range of climbing, including passing through a chimney.

The first pitch is short, but steep, with the crux (~10a) being awkward hand jamming over a bulge. Despite the appearance at the bottom, you do not chimney here -- the start has a layback flake on the left side of the chimney. Ends just below the chimney, or continue by linking it with P2.

Pitch two goes through the chimney (that is "through", not just up -- you kind of vanish inside of it). When you exit above the chimney, follow the fist-wide hands crack (crux) to a ledge in a corner system.

For pitch three, follow the corner to the top.

Descend either by rappel via the gully between the cheeks and the Upper Town Wall, or use the recently installed anchors on God's Bones. If you do the latter, remember to swing into the rock at the end, otherwise you'll be left dangling.

Location

Starts near the end of the Perverse Traverse.

Protection

Full range of sizes, up to fist-sized cams.