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Peak Mountain 3

Dire Prospects (aka Unnamed 5.10a)

FA Old School
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Description

This is a short, though cruxy, climb behind the Prospect Point Pinnacle. The guidebook description: Overhang with two cracks above.

The route begins under a low, deep overhang. Begin with an undercling and a sidepull. A nut can be placed from the ground, and another can be placed from the first move. After this, protection is difficult/impossible, as all those beautiful-looking finger pods are actually flaring downwards and outwards.

A series of liebacks and hand bumps leads to a couple weird crimps, then the route follows easy (5.6) blocks to the top. An OK cam can be placed in the obvious large crack near the top.

Location

It is Route #9 in Sven's guide under Prospect Point Rampart. From the West Bluff Trail where you can see Prospect Point Pinnacle, walk down and around onto the highest platform. There are several ~25 ft. climbs here.

Protection

Standard rack. Offsets recommended. Don't be surprised if you only place 2-3 pieces.