Pitfalls of Hesitation

A really good and fun trad 5.10 adventure climb with great exposure overlooking the canyon below. Start in the gully on the lower left side of the spire uphill a little ways from the bottom. Climb the unprotected 5.8 slab ~20 Ft or so where you get some pro and then on up to a horizontal break. I am told you can skip the run out slab by traversing in from the left at this point. Continue up to a roof that at first appearance looks more difficult than it is. Turn the roof at the left side to the first belay. It is possible to protect your second under the roof so they don't slam the left wall if they fall near the beginning of the roof. Head up a little and if you follow the left line I am told it is ~5.9 and if you choose up and slightly right it is 5.10 or so. Continue up to a large horizontal overlap and traverse left to the second belay. The traverse can be easy or a little awkward depending on the path you choose. At this belay straight above you is Children of the Revolution. Leave the belay and go a little left and up to an old rusty pin (it was loose 8 years ago) and run up the good but short face with no pro (all air if you fall and the pin pops) to some blocky underclings (good pro) and traverse a little right and up to the finish.

Find your way to the southwest corner of the spire and rap off the west side. Do not rap off the south anchors (Children of the Revolution) or you will be jugging back up to rap the west side. This will be a double rappel to the ground. Go down the gully a little ways (but not to the base) until it is possible to start up the 5.8R slab.

Gear, Chain Anchors