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Peak Mountain 3

East Face Start

FA Alan Watts 9/24/1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Lower E Face is a very good technical crack climb protected mainly by stoppers. An ascent placing gear is a worthy challenge compared to the most 12c sport climbs at Smith.

Start off with a mix of face climbing and a finger sized crack. After the flares cease, the crack thins for about 35 feet, moving passed a glued in piton (??) and a pumping crack switch. You'll either need small fingers or be able to lock off past the thinnest pin scars, which usually accommodate 2 fingers. The final 20 feet to the mid pitch anchor aren't too bad.  Apart from a 15 ft section around the pin, the protection is bomber and plentiful if you can hang on to place.

Protection

many small wires, offset and conventional, cams to 1 hand size piece and offset cams also fit well at certain points. The best piece to back up the pin is a 1/2 offset cam