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Peak Mountain 3

West Face

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Description

The west face of Gannett peak offers a less technical route than the glaciers of the east, and will likely be snowfree in the future. However, what this route lacks in technical difficulty is made up for in the strenuous approach options, see  the approach section for details of getting to Skinny Lake, the start of the route

Starting at Skinny Lake, elevation 10,700 ft, looking up at Gannet you will see two sets of waterfalls coming off the minor glacier, you will climb up the talus going climbers right around the southern waterfalls. After the waterfall continue up boulders and scree to the minor glacier. This first section to the glacier is approximately 1 mi and 1,100 ft elevation gain

Next, stroll across the rapidly receding glacier to the base of the left leaning couloir leading to Gannett's north ridge. You will be gaining approximately 1,400 ft, expect plenty of loose rock and talus in this couloir. This was nearly snow free as of August 2020 except for two snow patches, one of which contained ~40 degree bulletproof snow.

Once on the north ridge, climb a short (100'?) 4th class section to the summit snowfield, above the short scramble one can find some rappel slings. Once on the snowfield follow your nose to the summit and top out the Cowboy State.

Overall the quality of this climb is poor, however the scenery, location and summit will make this an epic adventure.

Protection

Ice axe and Crampons, experienced mountaineers will likely find a rope unnecessary.