- Edit (TBD)
Description
The climbing is not that brilliant but the situation is awesome ! 3 short pitches ABOVE the Pendulum roof. Established "top-down", the last pitch was done first etc; The last sequence is the crux, some thinnish face past a bolt. P1 move right past a bolt to a widening crack and tree/bolt belay 50' 9+ P2over a bulge (bolts) then thin moves (tcu) and a ramp to a nice ledge (thin belay- use the rap rope for back-up)5.10 P3 up a nice flake to stance with a bolt, thin moves past this to the top 45' 10c.
Location
Approach as for Airaton etc, then go left along tha cliff edge for about 200' to trees atop a short slab.Rap 165' to a small ledge with bolts at the lip of a big overhang. Make sure to knot the rope !!! You will be about 25' right of the Pendulum roof
Protection
some thin gear and maybe one big cam for pitch one.Small tcu's are key.Some bolts, all in all pretty good pro.
Routes in The Mordor Wall
- 8Division of Labour5.10cTrad