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Peak Mountain 3

Speedway Boogie

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Description

This may be the nicest moderate sport route at Leda. From a crack climbing start to balancy face moves, it's a fun challenge all the way.

Starting at an obvious crack just left of a small arete, use hand jams or layback to work your way up to a welcome huge jug just under the very high first bolt. Stick clipping may make the strenuous start more mentally bearable; there's also great gear placements in the crack. Continue up the face with crimps and reachy incuts to a ledge at the top.

As with many other Leda routes, the DCA rating of 5.7 is a bit of a sandbag.

NOTE: this route is erroneously listed in the Chatt Steel guidebook as "Disdain Campaign."

Location

Starts just left of the Fanfair arete and 15' right of Free to Think.

Protection

Five bolts, ring anchors.