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Peak Mountain 3

Culling The Herd

FA Tyler Casey
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is perhaps one of the most striking and obvious features of the entire South Platte. Any climber driving out of Thunder Ridge on a late alpenglow afternoon has undoubtedly looked at this majestic wall with suspicion of a line on its face.

For any willing sheep out there, "Culling The Herd" shares the first few moves of "

Ten Years After

" by laybacking the polished crack system. At the third bolt, the shears come out. Break left on a sloping seam where a challenging variable sequenced boulder problem (

V7

) awaits.

Survive the initial onslaught, and bear down for another boulder sequence (

V

6

) utilizing some compression, hand/heel matches, and finesse to gain a decent shake under the small roof.

Don't let up as the wolves are still out, and another (

V6

) problem awaits after the roof pull with a strenuous shoulder move on the large, sloping feature. Some creativity may allow for a rest before dispatching the exit sequence (around

V4

) to the first actual jug shake of the route.

If you've survived the massacre, cruise up the vert headwall on entertaining 5.11 terrain where a final gut check

12a/b

finish move awaits.

This is one of the more unique lines & movement in the South Platte - a true testpiece for the grade in the region. If it were in the Flatirons, it would stand out indefinitely. Around sunset, this wall lights up in an iridescent sheen of colors and glow. It is best to be attempted in winter months/cloudy conditions if warmer.

If you're reading this, go test your mettle and wool, and DO IT!

Location

It is located just right of "

Ten Years After

" on the sloping belay ramp.

Approach with a short ,15-20 minute hike from the parking lot.

Protection

12 bolts and rap ring anchors. *I have Mussy hooks to donate to the anchors if someone would like to install them.