Nightmares

Start on the obvious chalked, jutting, left hold, and right side pull. Climb up the nose of the boulder with small, crimpy holds on each side. Navigate passed the tricky sloper-pinch, gripping anything decent you can find, then launch to a decent hold and proceed carefully to the top. EDIT June, 2018, A newly released guidebook features this route as a V4 named "Tall Arete"

Directly across the trail from the bouldering spot mentioned in the guide book. Use the established route "Arrowhead" as a beacon.

At least 3 crash pads and a spotter, more would be better.