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Peak Mountain 3

Offwidths are beautiful

FA Craig Luebben, Sari Schmetterer, Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy, and George Hurley. 1988
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Pitch 1. Fun and varied right facing offwidth. Stack, chicken wing & squeeze if you can up to a fixed pin then launch into a squeeze chimney that will squeeze you back and eventually force you to crush some more offwidth (blue big bros or a #9 valley giant helps make this less of a religious experience) #6 Camalots are good to have but useless up high. This has been called 5.10 but I would add a few +'s unless you are a 7 year old or Craig Luebben. 2 bolt belay with rap rings in chimney. 5.10

Pitch 2. Chimney between the pillar and the main wall. The Karl Kelly book says that there is "no worthwhile pro" and I would agree. Enjoy the spirit quest as this is a fun pitch. 5.8 X

Location

Route starts in the right facing corner on the north side of the tower

Protection

Pitch 1. Camalots:

2 #3's

1 new #4

1 #5

3 #6's

#9 valley giant or blue big bros

One quick draw for the piton 1/2 way

You could bring more wide gear but then it would be hard to make any upward progress.

Two bolt anchor with rap rings

Pitch 2.

nuts 1 set

.1

.2

.3

draws for nuts

2 angled pitons with webbing on main wall for anchor

We did two rappels using a single 70 meter rope.


Routes in Offwidths are beautiful


  1. 1
    Offwidths are beautiful
    5.10
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1000 km
1000 mi