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Peak Mountain 3

Diabeetus

FA: Wilford Brimley 1993; FFA: Josh Smith 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If you spend enough time at the Ice Cream Parlor, you'll eventually have to grapple with Diabeetus. Follow the ever-widening crack, mantle up onto the tower to its left, then finish on the finger crack to your right. This route was first ascended on TR solo in pseudo-quarantine. The first free ascensionist rated it 10-, and he'd know better than I what that should feel like in the OW-chimney realm.Special thanks to Liberty Medical for their support in establishing this route.

Location

This is the super-wide crack staring you in the face as you emerge from the descent slot.

Protection

The fat crack is about 35' vertical, and ranges from #6 to #8 and beyond. Optional hand-sized piece in a secret location. The finger crack above will take 0.5s, and probably similar sizes. Most folks will feel run-out without something bigger than a #6, and some folks will want a #8 or a Big (epithet for a douchey young man). 2-bolt anchor. In '93. Wilford Brimley free soloed the route with an assist from Chuck Norris, who happened to be wearing a jet pack. This controversial tactic arguably counts as both aid and protection.