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Peak Mountain 3

Sundance

FA Pat Callis, Charlie Raymond & Larry Reynolds, January 1967
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble up to a ledge with a pine tree directly below Log Ledge, a sloping shelf with a dead log, then walk left to a left-facing flake system which is the start of the route.

P1) Lieback up the widening crack (5.8) to reach a small ledge where another left-facing corner (5.9) leads to the left side of Log Ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.

P2) Make some thin moves off the belay (crux) and then wander up the incredible face above past five bolts. After the last bolt traverse right (5.9) to gain the arete of a left-facing flake system which is climbed 20' or so without pro (5.6) to a stance atop the flake with a 2 bolt belay.

P3) Climb face past two bolts into a thin crack with tricky gear placements or head left after the second bolt, via the popular

Sundike

variation, past two more bolts.

Descend off the back via Bye Gully or by rapping down the face (not recommended if it's busy).

Location

This fantastic route lies in the middle of the main Sunshine Face just left of the classic

Valhalla

.

Protection

Mostly bolts with supplemental gear to 4 inches; larger gear if you feel the need