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Peak Mountain 3

Welcome to the Jungle

FA Sam Boyce, Joe Manning 9/11/15
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A slightly wandering trad route on good rock and good gear on the far left buttress of Gun Show.

It looked pretty easy from the ground, so i decided it would be a good opportunity to go ground up on something. After a bit of inspection i decided to trundle p1 on rap. Turned out to be a good idea as i pulled off many body sized blocks. The rock underneath however was bomber and gear options plenty. The pitches are unfortunately fairly short, but we decided to pitch it out for rope drag and communication. It might make sense to link either 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 for future ascents.

P1- Start on the lower left of the lower wall with a few chimney moves, move out right and follow the scrub line. Pull onto the big ledge and belay at the two-bolt anchor. Super solid rock, good gear, and fun climbing. 5.8 ***

P2- Those not thrilled on adventure can downclimb a bit of 4th class to the right. This is where the route got its name. Start by monkeying under the dead tree and pull the roof by standing on the stump, then continue up the dirty chimney (climbs cleaner than it is) to the final ramp. Good gear belay. 5.8/9 *

P3- Get a couple pieces in and gingerly dance around the big scary block, easier climbing to the top out (loose). Walk either all the way to the trees at headlight point or build a gear anchor about halfway up (there's a solid anchor about 100 ft back from the top out and toward climbers right). 5.6 *

P4?- Walk up to headlight point, either hike out, or climb up and top out on headlight.

Location

From the stairway chimney, continue right up past Dislocated until a talus field is reached (approx. 100 ft from dislocated). From here the whole route is visible.

Protection

SR from blue metolius to 3 (#4 is nice for P3)