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Peak Mountain 3

Caboose

FA Mike Cronin
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UPDATED 

Description

This is a good little 5.9 climb that would give an inspiring leader a much needed challenge. The crux rears its ugly head at the very end of the route, just before anchors.

Location

Depending on your perspective, the developers could have named this route "Locomotive", but this train is heading north, thus this climb is the very first one you come to on the Iron Horse Wall. It is listed as Number 11 in the Spearfish Canyon Limestone Guidebook, and is kind of a pain in the neck to get to since it is up a hill, and tucked around the corner. Don't mistake it for Derail, which is a 5.11a/b climb just to the right of Locomotive Breath.

Protection

5 bolts. The guide book reports Open Shut anchors, but bring extra quickdraws just in case they have been replaced with closed shuts, which was the case on Locomotive Breath and Night Train.