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Peak Mountain 3

Magical Mystery Tour

FA Paul Davidson, John Fleming, September 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake. Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip...

The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.

The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.

I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.

Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.

Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.

Location

Right of Devil's Deed and Left of Redrum/Jungleland (aka the Left Line) there is an Africa shaped flake. Start the climb off the ledge where the Lines start. Climb the corner and get established into the upper crack.

Protection

Std rack.


Routes in The Overlook


  1. 20
    Magical Mystery Tour
    5.11
    Trad