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Peak Mountain 3

Strata-Caster

FA Ian Cavanaugh and Steve Annecone, July 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Strata-Caster is named after a beautiful panel of ancient mud castings that is encountered on the route. It follows a steep and colorful shield of rock on the right side of the wall. The rock is solid and seems to be cleaner, in general, than other routes up there. Still, some care is occasionally necessary to avoid wandering off route and into potential chossy sections here and there.

Start up easy 5.5 or 5.6 terrain to a high first bolt. From there, follow the bolts up steeper terrain, past a small roof, to the base of another small roof below a clean red shield of rock. The next 20 feet (bolts 7 through 9) is the crux region and involves some powerful, reachy climbing on crisp edges. Some delicate footwork is also needed in this section. Some more interesting climbing past the mud casts leads to the final roof.  Thuggy moves over this roof take you to fun 5.10 jugs and the anchor above.

This route is about 36 or 37 meters long, and a 70m rope just gets you to the ground with rope stretch. Therefore, make sure to bring a

minimum 70-meter long rope,

and if using a 70, knot the end, and be careful. An 80m rope is a good idea if you have one.

Enjoy, and thanks to OSMP for allowing new route development in beautiful places like this! Also thanks to Paul Glover for spotting this line and getting it permitted for bolting.

Location

This route is on the south side of the west face, maybe 15 yards uphill from the right edge of that huge pedestal/ledge feature (... which is used used to access

Tits Out...

,

Release the Hostages

,

The Big Picture

,

etc

.). It is also right of

Short Attention Span

. Look for the high starting bolt and the line of bolts above that.

Protection

Draws for 14 bolts and Mussy hooks for lowering at the top anchor.