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Peak Mountain 3

The Xue Way

FA Chris Koppl, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Brian Prince
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Due to its well protected nature compared to Southern Belle and climbing that is not as sustained in gnar compared to Growing Up, this is probably the easiest mostly free route up the south face. As is, it has less than 10 points of A0 (pull on a bolt) and over 2,000’ of sweet free climbing. The last 1000’ headwall definitely has some of the most awesome face climbing one can find on a face like this - steep, perfect rock, sweet crimps. Bottom part of the face zig zags across cracks and dikes in order to make progress on natural features. Pitch 3 probably requires an aider to get over 6-7 A0 moves in a row.

Named and dedicated to memory of Michelle Xue.

Location

To climbers right and uphill from Growing Up/South Face corner system. Scramble on bushy ledge system till you get to a large flake with a wide left facing corner which marks the start of the route.

Protection

Mix of bolts and gear. 12 slings/draws. Cams 2each 0.3-#2. Single #3.


Routes in 4. South Face