- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is summarily described in Gerry Roach's guide to RMNP. A buttress descends in the southeast direction from the summit of Little Matterhorn. (That is from the high point at the far end of the ridge.) The route climbs easy slabs to the left of a large overhang that cuts across the base of that buttress. The slabs are about two pitches. (We didn't rope up for this section.)
At the top of the slabs, move right to the base of the upper section of the buttress. From there, it's about 70m to the top. The climbing close to the crest of the ridge is around 5.5.
Location
From Lake Helene, follow the trail to Grace Falls. Ascend the talus slope under Little Matterhorn trending right toward the slabs to the left (west) of a large overhang.
Protection
Standard rack.