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MapDescription
PernStar is the only current established route with a few variations. We climbed in 4 pitches the first day then in 3 pitches the next:
P1 - Climb a broken hands/fist corner for a bit then move left and up to a comfortable belay. ~110ft 5.9
P2- Climb face and broken cracks up to a ledge, then up and right over a small roof to a huge ledge and belay. ~ 85ft 5.9
P3- Short OW to more face/broken cracks moving left up to a ledge beneath the summit. ~130ft 5.8
P4- Climb up to the north side and make a nest of C3's, then traverse back left and its an easy boulder problem up to the top. Down climb off the top. ~ 25ft 5.8PG-13
Approach
- Fight through trees/bushes on the left side of the beach to access the "trail." Follow the wash up and stay left with the vegetation until you reach the base of the climb. Approach takes about 20 minutes once on the beach.
Descent
- There are rap anchors located on the wall behind the head of the tower to the north on a hidden ledge. Rap down to the lower section of ledges and the second anchor is made of tricams to the east. two 60 meter double raps will get you back to the start.
Protection
set of TCUs , double rack up to #3, 1 #6 for the short OW
Routes in PernStar Beach
- 1PernStar5.9Trad