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Peak Mountain 3

Beta Male

FA Mike Snyder, 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climbs the same corner as The Morrigan but the bolt line is to the right. step onto the face after 20' and climb positive crimps up to the small roof. Pull through this tricky feature to a big side pull at the base of a blank section. I cleaned some tiny features going straight up but alternately found that going left to two small crimps and an all-points-off dyno for the biggest hold on the route was the way to go. Rest here if you need it as the route tips back a bit for the next 30' before offering any decent pauses again. The last 30' is no walk in the park either so save a little for the end. Finishes at the ledge just right of the roof. This is a long route and may require a 70 meter rope, though I had 30' of my 70m rope on the ground when all was said and done. Please use caution and tie a knot in the end of your cord if you're using a 60m.

I really thought this one would be a .13a with the dyno and the overall length. What do you think?

Location

Between The Morrigan to the left and Whiskey Gina to the right. This monster ascends the face between the two crack climbs and faces down canyon. It is roughly right above the parking area (pull out #5).

Protection

14 clips, sport anchor