Orange Sunshine

Orange Sunshine hooked me on climbing. Of course, I'd already been playing with the hook; I'd blown off much of my senior year of college bouldering at the UW Rock. But on a warm summer evening in 1986, I discovered there was more to climbing than contriving moves on concrete. The rock was bathed in the light of an amazing sunset. Orange lichen glowed around the splitter sweep of the crack. The sound of the river and the strong scent of sagebrush carried up from the canyon below. I was toproping my first 5.10, and I was elated and surprised as I moved higher and higher without falling. Eventually I did fall, but I was just as satisfied when I figured out the sequence of overhanging finger locks and footwork that ends the route. When I awoke the next morning, Orange Sunshine was the first thing I thought of.

The crack begins as a flake that you can alternately jam and lieback, with good edges for the feet. The first crux (5.10-) comes below a prominent break, where the crack narrows to finger pods. You can cop a rest at the break, but then the true crux starts: a gently overhanging flake, followed by pumpy finger locks with small edges and smears for the feet. An insecure mantle provides a final surprise.

Obvious splitter crack on a recessed column wall. Look for the orange lichen.

Gear to two inches; upper crack eats wireds.