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Peak Mountain 3

The Maw

FA unknown
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Description

P1. 5.8. 35m.  Slab climb up toward the bolts.  Gear would be an RP or knotted sling after the first bolt.  This pitch can be skipped, but it's good and heady. Bolted anchor.

P2. 10-. Crack climbing, all the sizes, and so very good. Crux is the last move, stemming the wideness to the jug, below the splitter OW. Bolted anchor.  (Leave a sling on this anchor to grab when swinging back on rappel. Also, could leave everything smaller than a #4 here.)

P3. 10+. Real deal OW flared corner. #5 camalots for 40' and then #6's. Totally safe. Bolted anchor.

P4. 5.10 weird. Climb to the back of the cave, leave your helmet behind. kiss that Valley Giant and send. Bolted anchor. Go light with a single 4,5,6 and valley giant.

Location

Walk almost to Slot Club wall. 100' short of it traverse climbers left a few hundred yards, and scramble up to the next level. Hard to miss when you are up there.

Protection

Single to 6, plus the VG9 or blue bro. Doubles .5-5 would have made P2-3 a lot more mellow.

3 single rope raps.  70m rope gets you to the start of the slab, or a 60m would get you to climbers left, to scramble back to the bags.   Leave a sling hanging on P2 anchor so you can easily swing over and grab it.