- Edit (TBD)
Description
After gaining the double bypass belay, two pitches of 5.12 make for a three pitch outing.1) A weird, somewhat chossy traverse under the big roof into a really fun boulder problem. Can link into this pitch from the top of quailing and lower off with an 80, though without a lot of care, rope drag is horrendous. Don't try to lower off with a 70. ~5.12c2) Pre-clip first bolt and traverse further right into a fun boulder problem off the hanging belay. Then up into a vague groove feature. Insecure, off-balance, technical climbing up the groove leads to easy climbing to the summit. Felt harder than the first pitch to me but I fell off. This last pitch is open and fully bolted.
Location
See topo pic.
Protection
If you dig the fixed gear and start from the Double Bypass belay, you only need 3 quick-draws to do the first pitch. Anchor is rigged to lower-off. Second pitch is 10 bolts, some longer draws helpful.
Routes in Main Ampitheater
- 17Tea leaf dancers5.12Sport