Beau Knows

Begins on the prominent, south side of the massif. Climb the large blocks on their east side (broken dihedral) with a few fun moves, around 5.6. Climb up 30m +/- to a new 2-bolt rap/anchor station. From the station, climb straight up the last block, then head left to the first crux (5.7) - an exposed step over to good hands in a crack that goes left and ascends as it goes. Follow this as it leads you to a big ledge (1-2' wide). You will see a pocket about chest high just left of a soft arete. Take a BIG step up to get onto the face. Go straight up the soft arete (5.8R) up thin face holds to a growing V-shaped groove on your left, just below the 2nd ledge. At the 2nd ledge, slot a nut or clip the likely rotten fixed hex/cord and then immediately slot a nut in the crack above. This is another big step up, but with great hands (5.8-/5.7+). Follow this fun crack (the funnest part of the route) up until it grows into a bigger crack and turns into 4th class terrain. There is a large block in the crack, which you can girth hitch. It seems solid enough, but we didn't yard away on it. You can set up a belay in this body sized trench before you finish. Likely a few ways to finish the last 10' of climbing. We went to the east side, where the last crux (5.7) is another committing step, but puts you in bomber handholds, and then it's over - you're on top.

The route seems fairly obvious from below - when you walk up to the North Noddle from the south, it follows the right hand side of the large blocks to the anchor. From there, the crack heading left (west) is also obvious. Get down with 2 rappels with a 60m rope. A 50m will not get you down, but a 70m is not necessary.

Tri-cam or #2 (yellow) C3 Camalot for the hueco/pocket. Cams up to #3.5/4 to set up a belay on top in the big trench. Medium-sized nuts for the crack. Cams from 0.75-2" for the rest of the route. Bring a few long runners to minimize drag. 60m rope to do 2 30m rappels from the summit.