Magic Feather

This route was top-roped at 5.10, and Reese Martin apparently had plans to bolt it. In the style of Tim Coates (on Clean Sweep) and Martin (on From the Ashes & Roothless Poodles), this route was first led on roped-solo.

The route starts with 5.9 climbing on good edges past the first bolt. The crux (5.10a) is passing the second bolt on subtle features.

After gaining an obvious ledge, climb the left side of the blunt arete to the top (past two more protection bolts).

Four lead bolts (three 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts and a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt). To really sew this up, you'll want a single 1/2" or 1" cam.

Shares the top anchor with From the Ashes.