The Devil Made Me Do It

This "3" pitch route is the rightmost route on the main wall of Devil's Castle, to the right of the classic, Portable Darkness. The pitches are all short, and P2&P3 is easily linked to make this a quick up and down route if you are waiting on other parties elsewhere.  All three belay stations are set up for raps, a 70m rope will get you from the P2 belay to the ground, with one 60, it is best to do all three raps.

P1. 5.10a, 25 meters, 8 bolts gets you up a gray wall crimping a few short technical moves to a big ledge under a small belay cave to protect ya from the falling rocks above.

P2. 5.9, 25 meters, 6 bolts. Step back left from the belay and turn the small cave up, into the blocks above, onto a slightly sloped belay ledge that is hidden until you get there.

P3. 5.8, 25 meters, 5 bolts. Climb slabs up and right of the belay, entering into a right facing corner.  Transfer onto the left wall of the corner, finishing at a semi hanging belay.  Easy to link P2&P3 with a few alpine draws.

Note, as of today this route is quite dirty, even for DC standards. I did a lot of cleaning, but I am more than positive that there are still loose rocks and I know plenty of dirt is still on the ledges, just waiting for the wind to whisk them clean... Thus, just like every other route on the Castle, wear a helmet! and I am sure this will eventually clean up with traffic.

Located to the right (west) of ‘Poon Limp or Eat Crust’ about 20-30 meters or so.  The route starts up a small, scree filled gully just a short ways, which is easiest to access on the right side.

Fully Bolted. 12 draws will allow you to link P2&P3