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Peak Mountain 3

Premero

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Description

A fun sustained moderate water groove that is well-protected for almost any cliff.

Climb a short traverse left across the ledge. I used a #2 camalot and purple tri-cam to set up a belay. Bring your partner over to the belay for less drag and rope out in case of a fall at the first few bolts.

Start up the steep shallow groove on cool crystals and knobs. Follow this up past several bolts. The groove will become a little deeper for stemming. It helps if the route is completely dry since many smears happen in the groove. Continue following the groove and bolts. A few small cams can be placed between a couple of the last bolts. Near the end, traverse slightly left to the anchors.

Location

The climb starts near where the trail meets the base of the water groove wall. Look for a long ledge about 20' up. This climb starts in the middle of the ledge where there are many more bolts the surrounding climbs. Two 60m ropes are needed to rappel.

Protection

#1 (or purple tricam),2 camalot, a few small cams 0 Metolius to 2 or 3. Some draws for the bolts.