- Edit (TBD)
Description
From the ground, this excellent line looks like just another Cactus Cliff-style bolted crack squeeze job. There is no doubt this line encroaches on its ultra-classic neighbor "
Family Jewels
". However, the climbing is surprisingly good and the rock is excellent, making it a worthy addition.
Begin with some easy scrambling past two widely spaced bolts. As the wall steepens, long cranks between large, flat edges lead to a slight bulge and a splitter crack. The great thing about this line is that you can climb the business like a crack, with bomber jamsd and fingerlocks, or you can face climb right over the crack, with cool sidepull moves, great crimps and sinker pockets. A final bulge appears above a good ledge, just below the last bolt, where a hidden hold allows easy passage.
Location
This is immediately right of "
Family Jewels
", on the left end of The Vault.
Protection
10 bolts.
Routes in The Vault
- 10Tryptophan5.10b/cSport