Crack n Up

If memory serves correctly, this is one of the more committing pitches I've ever embarked on.

Climb up the final corner of Cheiu Hoi until you reach a flake feature. I recall the last good gear being here...there was a nest that someone had likely bailed off of. Out right in the dyke there is hopefully still a fixed knifeblade piton of unknown length hammered to the hilt. After clipping this, engage in moves that get increasingly difficult the further away from the pin you get. I recall looking at a large arc of rope running back to the pin as I tried to put in a grey TCU. It bent over sideways when I tried to place it because the crack was too small and I was so desperate.

Clipping the cam back to my harness I looked forward, then back, then forward. I didn't think I could reverse the moves so I continued, thinking it would get easier. At some point I'm sure it does, but I can't remember if there is any more gear or not. Perhaps a tiny stopper would've fit in one of those strange placements in the dyke. All I remember is hard face climbing and feeling as though I'd take the ride of my life if I fell. If the pin blew, without exaggeration I remember thinking I would have taken an 80-footer back down into the corner. I would love to hear other peoples' stories about this pitch to see if it's like I remember it, or if it's not so bad. Amazing, committing climbing is what I remember!

Branching out right onto the black dyke further up the final pitch of Cheiu Hoi

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