The Book of Pleasure

P1: solo up the short perfict hand crack to the alcove that marks the start of the of the

Ribbed Buttress

.

P2 or P2/3: start the ribbed buttress climbing a short, semi-rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here, traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy, broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here, follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.

P3 or 4: you are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- to a bolt and pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.

P4 or 5: thrutch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 awkward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.

It is in the same location as

Ribbed Buttress

.

Single Friends from a #0.25 to a #6 and a single set of Camalots from #1 to a #5, a few small nuts, lots of longs runners, hammer and a few select arrows and blades in case the fixed ones blow.