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Peak Mountain 3

Belle of the Beast

FA Les Ellison, Kevin Lockwood, Brian Smoot and Jim Mutscheller, 2015
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start below a white stripe/section of rock at a fixed pin.

P1: Climb the dark granite slab up and right past the white stripe and a fixed pin to a ledge past a bulge. Continue up a corner on the right OR up a weakness on the left to a good ledge with fixed anchors. 5.7

P2: Climb up the smooth face using trad gear and 3 bolts to another excellent ledge, 110' (5.8)

P3: Traverse right 20' to a steep, exposed all bolt protected face to the top of the prominent gendarme 5.8

Descend via 3 raps, using one 70 meter rope. Be careful with the pulls as we got our rope stuck.

From the base we traversed down and west to 2 big trees. From here we traversed back east down a ramp to the base. From here we followed a rock slide down to the trail that is used for Beauty and Beast routes.

Location

Approach as for Bells Beast, you can climb the first pitch of Beauty to gain the upper ledges and then traverse about 200 right via 4th class ramps and ledges to the start. You can also bushwack directly across from the Bells Canyon trail to a rock slide which is just right of the climb. This approach is less exposed but has a few short sections of heavy bushwacking. This second option is the descent we use.

Protection

1 - 2 sets of cams to 3" plus wireds.


Routes in Bell's Beast


  1. 3
    Belle of the Beast
    5.8
    Trad