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Peak Mountain 3

Ninth Circle

FA Matt Martinez,
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ninth Circle is a longer, exciting route with multiple betas and an assortment of different holds to keep even 5.12+ and up climbers engaged.

Just be prepared for a possible blood sacrifice on the razor-sharp crimps with thin feet that make their way past the first two bolts (technical crux). Then, compose yourself for the next two slightly runout bolts--until permanent draws are added--by finding interesting beta made up of hidden holds, high feet, and/or big moves (mental crux). The rest of the climb certainly eases up by a letter grade or two, but features the more fun finger/hand pockets, slots, and cracks as you move diagonally to the left.  

The climb is still new so some fuzz could be cleaned with more ascents and some small holds may still blow. Wear a helmet.

Location

Walk up trail into the gutter and over the tree-bench across from Cherty Dancing. Walk forward a couple feet to large rocks and you will see a very short uphill trail to your left that leads to the base of the climb. 

Protection

7 bolts to lower-off anchors.  

Permadraw at bolt 4 is for ease in cleaning where the route take a left turn.


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