A Complicated System of Pulleys and Leavers

Like many of the routes at the Bear Crag this route begins with a few steep moves through some questionable rock. Stick clipping the first bolt is highly recommended as it is on other routes at the Bear Crag. Crank through the opening steepness and then move slightly right to the third bolt. You then mantle a sloping ledge and clip the fixed chain draw which protects the thin crux. The golden panel which leads up from the ledge is likely what Bachar was aiming for if he was in fact the one who placed the original two bolts. Don't cheat yourself by moving way right of the chain draw onto easier ground. Good footwork and a few small crimps allow you to pull the slight bulge at the chain draw directly. After the crux continue up the center of the golden panel on increasingly large holds making three more clips along the way. Mantle another small ledge, make one more clip, and crank fun holds to the two bolt anchor.

Equipped with eight Bolt Products 8mm Twist glue-in bolts. The fourth bolt is equipped with a fixed chain draw to facilitate a high clip at the crux and to help with cleaning the lowest three bolts on the way down.

This route was an unfinished project which was revived in 2019 and bolted and red pointed in the summer of 2021. It was labeled as "F - Open Project - John Bachar" in the Fire Wall section of Marty Lewis' 4th Edition Mammoth Area Rock Climbs, which is the definitive guide to the Bear Crag. The open project consisted of just two lead bolts which had leaver 'biners on them. The anchor was installed with a system of pendulums from an approach anchor in the choss above the panel. The name comes from MJ exclaiming "It's just a complicated system of pulleys and levers!" during the anchor installation.

A Complicated System of Pulleys and Leavers is located in the center of the Fire Wall sector. It begins in a short overhanging section of northwest facing choss which is very close to the trail. The route then wraps around to the right and climbs a very clean gold panel which faces West and slightly South.

Eight lead bolts to a two bolt anchor which is equipped for lowering off.