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Peak Mountain 3

Funny Face

FA Jim McCarthy and Tim Mutch, 1954
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a good route to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.

Start 150' right of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress at two short left-facing corners capped at 10' by an overhang. This is 25' left of Brave Valkyrie, about a 10-minute walk from Uberfall.

P1: Starts with a little overhang 10' up (big cam). From there, head for the left-facing corner, then up a runout face and generally left to a belay ledge. 5.5, 90'.

Variation: after the left-facing corner, meander right to belay on a ledge, aiming for the second pitch of Brave Valkyrie which climbs the pretty face above at 5.6.

P2: Negotiate around right-facing flakes to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 90'.

P3: 30' and not worth it.

This climb isn't done all that often, so it has some grass on the bigger ledges and lichen here and there. Some flakes are a bit thin, so climb gently.

Protection

Can be a bit runout in sections. I placed mostly cams in horizontals and avoided placing pro behind flakes. Best to have two ropes to rappel from the GT ledge; there are sub-optimal intermediate anchors.