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Peak Mountain 3

Hairy Canary

FA Thomas Kelley, Lee Carter
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route gets its name from Thomas Kelley climbing the route in a pair of bright yellow tights with lots of body hair hanging out.

Climb up the short face to some gear then a stance. Climb some more moderate terrain to get to another stance below a bulge where the seam starts. Some okay gear can be had below the bulge. Step up as high as you can and sink a bomber medium/large stopper into the seam. Crank the bulge to a stance and get a good piece out right. Step a little higher to get to the bolt. Pull some thin moves that gets you to the last rail that leads out the roof. Plug some medium sized pro and start traversing out the roof. Ape out the final steep moves and clip the anchors.

Watch the flake at the very end of the roof.

Location

This is one of the first routes you come to on the approach to the lower wall. Look for a seam/crack feature that runs about midway up the route out a fairly large roof at the top.

Protection

Thin to #2 camalot size and medium to large stoppers. Bring some extra runners for gear below the bulges. One protection bolt and a two bolt anchor at the top.