- Edit (TBD)
Description
The main trade route to access the top of the camel. Quite an old route. Has old bolts.
If you have info on this route let me know i know nothing of its history, it should see more traffic for how classic it is.
This route begins right where the col or saddle meets the rock and climbs the lower spire. You can lead it with small to medium size cams and rap from a tree on the top of the lower spire. If you are willing to mak a leap to the second taller spire you can top rope some of the harder climbs. Lot's of briars in the saddle.
The climb out below the rappel tree requires you to make a move from an old bolt before you can get good protection. Falling there would not be advisable, but it is fairly moderate at 5.6 or so. Not 5.4 as stated in theold guide book. Leave a rope fixed in case the weather turns bad so you can jug up the face if necessary.
It should be noted that there have been lots of rattle snake sitings in this area during the summer so late fall or winter may be the best time to climb there.
Location
After rapping into the camel area with NC wall at your back head to the left and down a little to the south east face of the pillar to a somewhat obvious blocky corner follow this up and over to the west side of the buttress then to the top clipping several old bolts as you go.
Protection
Bring gear to back up bolts no anchor