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Peak Mountain 3

Top Gun

FA Greg Vernon, Blane Neely
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great route with a classic yosemite crack/corner on the first pitch.  Need all crack skills on first pitch and slab skills up high (pitch 4).

Pitch 1. The start of this route is the same start at south chimney route.  Start up easy unprotected slab and clip a bolt about 50' up that protects move into the crack system.  Climb the corner/dihedral crack up to where it gets wider and steeper and make chimney moves until you can lieback corner.  Great pro.  As the corner becomes more shallow step out left.  Do not continue up to the top.  As you step out left there is a wide crack on the face.  Continue to move up and left to bolted anchor.  If you go to high in the crack and become even with the anchor there is a hard slab move left.  The best way is to move out left lower and follow incipient crack up and left (better for follower too).  Runner your gear well or you will have massive rope drag right before the anchor.  5.9, 60 m, 1 bolt.  Rap to ground with 2 x 60 m ropes.

Pitch 2.  Interesting pitch that shares pitch with South Chimney.  Climb up and left to undercling and place gear (1") then clip three bolts moving left on features.  All bolts replaced with ASCA. Stop at anchor with chain.  You can rap straight down to the left with 1 x 70m which is easier than trying to rap right with 2 ropes.  For South Chimney continue past 2 more bolts left.   3 bolts, 10a .

Pitch 3. Head up and right in arching right facing corner/crack.  It is a little dirty but this is a fun pitch. Continue up corner until blocky ledge and build belay anchor with gear to 3" .  5.8, 30 m

Pitch 4.  Traverse right from belay past 3 bolts and fixed pin heading towards water streak.  Continue clipping bolts through bulge and follow water groove to two bolt anchor. Rap from here with 2x 70 m ropes and follow rap for "Sweet Liberty".  Or continue to the top with easy 5.6 pitch.  9 bolts, fixed pin, 10b, 60m

Pitch 5. Follow groove trending right until crack and climb crack with gear until the top and walk off climbers right.

Location

Big Right Facing Corner on the right side of Chiquito.

Protection

Bolts and Gear (doubles to 4")