Mary Jane

Mary Jane is located in the same area as the Jolly Roger and Angel's Crack. The climb is 50 feet of vertical, well sustained 5.7 climbing with the 5.8 crux at the top. Climb up using horizontal cracks and ledges, avoiding the corner to the right. Near the top you will find a ledge to stand on and above it you will see a vertical crack. To finish the climb, reach up with both hands and finger jam in this crack while stepping up with a smear on the smooth rock at knee level. It's a really fun crux if you've got the reach.

To get to the top of Mary Jane, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead and an outcropping to the right (west). Mary Jane faces south off the end of the western outcropping.

To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse".Scramble west about 150 feet until you get to the base of the climb. For reference, you will see some dead brush and a large, flat-topped boulder to your immediate left (to the south of the wall). The climb is just past this boulder.

Standard Rack