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Peak Mountain 3

Phantom Crack

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Description

One of the classics of the area, and the back cover of Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Ed. Climb a somewhat chossy slab (5.6) with limited protection to a small ledge with a hand crack in it. Jam the crack to the top (5.9). Some people do this as one pitch or set up a belay at the ledge below the hand crack. You can easily rap in with a single 60m rope, not sure about 50m.

RCM&W #42, p.214.

Location

Phantom crack lies about 10 yards north of a rock retaining wall overlook in a corner. The crack is clearly visible from further down the cliff, making it quite photogenic.

Protection

Nuts and small cams for the bottom. Hand sized hexes and cams for the top. For the top rope setup I found a large cam (fist sized), nuts and tri-cams are helpful.


Routes in Palisade Head


  1. 36
    Phantom Crack
    5.9
    Tr · Trad