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Peak Mountain 3

NW route.

FA M. Pickren & B. Kiessel
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1:

Climb the wide cracks up to a two bolt anchor on the left. 5.9, 80’.

Pitch 2:

Scramble up to the notch and then 3 studs with a hook move lead to a mantle on to a ledge.  Move right around the corner then up through some chossy rock to a couple bolts.  Cut right on slab to a #4 cam that helps get you around the corner to the right where there is a drilled pin.  Just right of the drilled pin is a crack that leads to a shoulder. Then a couple slab moves to the summit. 5.8 C2+, 120’.

Note:

Before we got there someone had climbed up to the ledge above the 3 studs but, we didn’t see any signs of passage after that. No anchor on top, etc.  It would be interesting to hear the story.  If they did make it to the top and did some voodoo to get down then this is a variation to the 2nd pitch.

Location

Hike up around the east side of the tower to the saddle on the north side.  Fix a 20’ line from the SE end of the saddle down to a nice big ledge.  There is a crack that takes .4-.75 sized cams for the fixed line.

Protection

Single: 5 & 6

Double: .75-4

Triple: .2-.75

3 rivet hangers or stoppers

1 hook (optional if you’re tall)

A nut for a 3/8” stud

Single 70m rope


Routes in The Admirer


  1. 1
    NW route.
    5.9
    Trad · Aid