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MapDescription
Start off on the easy 15 foot black rock section that puts you onto a ledge. Clip your first bolt and climb good crimps on 5.11 terrain till you're right below the body length roof with your face mashed against it since the good feet are a bit high. Clip the bolt with a chain on it from under the roof(very relieving) and undercling out the roof till you hit the flat jug above it. Now do the crux by lunging for a blind crimp out right while scraping for feet. Slap at what you can till you hit the chains. This felt hard for 12a, but its only one move and the fall is super clean.
Location
The 3rd route you come to after reaching the crag. The route climbs the face then pulls the obvious body length roof above it.
Protection
6 or 7 bolts, chains
Routes in Rodent Ranch
- 14To Stand On5.12aSport