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Peak Mountain 3

Arborvitae

FA Bernard Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This starts just left of

Great Tree Route

near two bolts. The climbing is good and consistent on good rock.

P1. Surmount a small overhang protected by bolts, and move up to a groove. Climb an awkward crux (10, bolts), then cruise up to the right side of a headwall. Pull the headwall at an overhanging flake, clip a bolt, and battle tricky slab moves. The cruxes are tricky and maybe easier for the tall. Go left, clip al bolt, and go up a slab to a ledge with chains, 10.

P2. Move right on the ledge 15 feet, sling a cam long, and then go up to a bolt. Thin cracks lead to crux layback and then a nice ledge with a pine tree (same belay spot as

Great Tree Route

), 10. Alternatively you can skip the layback moving left to the crack finish on ?Nosebleed? (10).

Descent: rap 140' from slings around a tree, or rap 50' and swing left to the chains atop pitch 1 and then rap 90'. Catch your rope to avoid the poison ivy that grows on the hillside at the base. You can avoid the PI by doing an easy 3rd pitch to the top, and walk off left.

The route can be wet due to a water streak that intersects the route. In the winter, snowmelt drains down this route.

Location

It is between

Great Tree Route

and

Red Tag

(and is route #14.5 in B. Gillett's fine guidebook) on the left side of December Wall below a big pine tree ~150 feet up.

Protection

6 bolts for P1, and 1 bolt for P2; and RPs, wires, and cams to a #1 Camalot.