Kingpin

Incredible rock. Three distinct cruxes, divided by much welcome rests. Start on the low angle slab, being careful when clipping the high first bolt. As soon as the angle kicks back, the action starts and doesn't let up until the first 'rest' at about the halfway point. The first crux is punchy and thuggy long moves to good holds save for one strange hold that could be called a mono, but is more like a shallow crimp with a single finger bucket. After the mid route rest, you launch directly into the second crux. This crux is thin and VERY sequency. There are few usable holds in the white shield of the headwall and you need every one of them. After you balance your way through the small camouflaged holds, you arrive at another rest, with some creativity this rest is extremely good. The third crux is the easiest boulder, but certainly no gimme. Either dead point to a sloper, or tick tack through the tiny (bad) holds to a sloping jug. DO NOT climb behind the flake, it is extremely sharp and falling from that side could spell disaster. There are great holds straight up, just gotta find them. Pull all the way onto the small ledge and stand all the way up before you can reach the anchors. Smile. You done did it. This route was bolted by the original Farmhouse developers, presumably in the 90's. When updating hardware on this route, it quickly became obvious that it was never even climbed on. I added working bolts to the first two cruxes, both of which you skip on the go. There was minimal cleaning and ZERO manufacturing. In the process of climbing this route, I was bucked off countless times by broken holds. By the end I had uncovered a very solid natural line that felt impossible until it didn't. Hope everyone enjoys this rig. 

Furthest right route on the left side amphitheater of the bowling alley.

12 bolts + lower offs.