West Ridge

Take the Goodell Creek approach (gaining ~5000 ft. via steep brushy hiking) to Terror Basin. Good bivy spots here. From Terror Basin traverse along rocky benches, cross the outlet of a large glacial lake and climb slabs and snow until on Terror Glacier below the McMillian Spires. Ascend the glacier toward a steep snow/ice gully which allows access to the West Ridge. It's a mellow 3rd-4th class scramble up scree and talus to the exposed summit block.

Descent: reverse the route

Terror Basin on the south side of the Southern Pickets

crampons, ice axe